Sec 3 South Pass City WY to Silverthorne CO - D16

06/25 Day 16, Wyoming/Colorado  Rawlins – Slater (86 miles)

Rather than re-visit the 24 Penny’s for breakfast in the morning, we opted for McDonalds instead, added some peanut butter biscuits from the hotel and we were set for the first ½ of the day. 

We expected about 90 miles today with some elevation changes especially at the divide crossing.  As had become the way, there were things we did not expect.

The first 55 or so miles were on steep, rolling, heavily wash boarded dirt roads.  The route was just east of the CD running along the Sierra Madres for about 30 miles then after cresting Middlewood Hill (7965), we crossed over the CD to the west. 

This was a rough, demoralizing day.  The wind was blowing 25 or 30 right at us so the crest of each hill was not rewarded with a restful descent.  Instead, going downhill only meant an increase of a couple of miles per hour speed.  Wind noise howled in our ears so every turn down wind was a relief.  There were times I wore the ear buds of my ipod just to quiet the wind noise. 

There was also a good volume of pickup truck traffic compared to what we were used to on similar roads.  All of the trucks seemed to have 4-wheel ATVs in the back or on trailers.  If the orientation of the road was just right, the trucks buried us in clouds of dust. 

Joel from Barcelona caught up with us for a bit.  We’d had dinner with him the night before the race but had not seen him and just assumed he was in front of us.  Seems he’d had a mechanical and was held up waiting for parts.  We rode together for a bit but he is such a good climber that he was soon out of sight.  At the crest of one of the hills there was a wall of snow – from plowing I assumed.  It was weird to see it there when it was such a hot day and it provided a good excuse to stop and take pictures. 

Washboard break against a snow wall.  Next round of pickups coming in. 

Joel 

At about 55 miles, we rode into Medicine Bow National Forest and trees!  We were never so glad to see trees.  They broke the wind and changed our whole attitude.  Add to that the much better grade of the forest roads and we were happy indeed.  Though, now we know where all the ATVs were going.  They were everywhere zooming down the roads – the really cool ones had a shotgun laid across the front.

As the route made its way through the forest, it went through a very cool tunnel of Aspens.  Most of the trees were carved with peoples names…even the ones that had fallen had carvings from the 60’s.  I’ve seen a few older photos of this section and in the past the Aspens were thicker.  We found out that the stand is infected with a blight and will soon be gone.  Very sad.

Eventually the road turned paved and we passed a sign that said road closed.  Not that we were going to change route, but we did make note.  We found out why when we came around a corner and saw 2 huge gaping holes in the road where snowmelt had eroded the road bed and the road itself caved in.  Glad not to have come across that in the dark. 

Shortly after, we passed the post office designated spot of Slater and gratefully crossed out of Wyoming into Colorado.  Another milestone.

New cue should read "at mile xxx hug right shoulder"

On to Colorado!

We turned back onto dirt on a road following the Little Snake River with tight turns and lovely views.  Along with the tight turns came some scary moments when a car or truck came around the corners quickly and we had to veer out of the way.  Not the car’s fault as we are always trying to find a smooth track to ride in and it always seemed to be on the wrong side of things.  But, it made me think of Dave Blumenthal who died doing the Tour Divide in 2010.  He had an accident avoiding a vehicle on a blind corner on the same road. 

Finally, with daylight getting short, the Brush Mountain Ranch, Whispering Pine Lodge came into view.  A most welcome sight.  Other than primitive camping, the ranch has the only lodging before Steamboat, another 50 miles away. 

Reinhold, Joel, Will Snow, Kevin Hall  (1 other) and Kirsten, the star of the lodge. 

The next morning after Kirsten finds just the right bolt in the barn for Sheila T's seat

Morning and the S Africans have arrived

Getting my Kirsten hug :)

Our experience at the lodge was amazing.  On the porch as we rode up were a family all dressed in the same western themed flannel pajamas.  I thought maybe all guests got them; not.  The porch had a fantastic mosaic table with a mountain bike design and “Tour Divide” carved on the side, and a huge platter of vegetables.  We felt at home immediately. 

The heart of the lodge is a beautiful woman named Kirsten who runs it for her family.  Though mostly known as a hunting/fishing destination, they are huge Tour Divide supporters. 

Kirsten was a gracious cooking machine.  In no time we were shown a beautiful room and had huge amounts of hot food.  Joel had arrived before us and Will, Reinhold and Kevin Hall (from Kentucky) showed up late.  The S. Africans apparently had such a rough go of it that they camped out and did not arrive until morning. 

By coincidence, Dave Blumenthal’s widow Lexi, and his now 5-year-old daughter, Linnaea were staying at the lodge along with some close friends.  They were there to mark the year it had been since Dave’s passing.  Lexi sat up with us and other racers staying at the lodge and we chatted into the evening.