Sec 6, Pie Town, NM to Antelope Wells, NM - D29

07/08 Day 29 New Mexico  Silver City, Separ, Hachita, Antelope Wells (123 miles)

The original plan was to leave Silver City around 2 or 3 am but having arrived so late after such a horrible day, we did not roll until about 6am.  STB seemed well, with no lingering effects from whatever had happened the day before. 

Breakfast was Shell station coffee and one of those hot burritos you get that might have been made in China.  The pain in my stomach is now constant.  Just 123 miles.  Just one day.

We had rolling hills from town on fast paved road for 20 miles.  Then in full daylight we turned onto the best section of dirt road of whole TD and had a great ride for the next 30 miles with 2 more CD crossings, to Separ.  At Separ we made a quick stop at the store then followed I10 on a now abandoned service road.  STB got another flat and I took the opportunity to call Jeff and tell him where we were.  Seems he was on the way and had a SPOT tracker of his own so friends could track him coming to get us.  Fun. 

Sunrise riding out of Silver City

Cows.  One more time. 

With a growing heat and head wind, we followed paved 146 south into Hachita.  A store thankfully had opened there and I was in need of a cool place to stop.  I desperately needed to eat but my stomach hurt so bad I could not face eating anything I had.  I got a freezer pizza and a cold drink at the store and ate it sitting on the floor chatting with the adorably cute clerk whose image was staring at us from a 10 ft tall Budweiser bull roping poster.  He is famous in Hachita. 

With ice in the camelbaks we rolled out.  Just 46 miles, head winds at about 15+, temperature 104 degrees.  We are strong Texas women and we can do this. 

The rest of the route was utterly unremarkable.  Which made it all the more difficult to get through.  We counted mile signs, listened to our ipods, anything to pass the time.  The only shade was an occasional tall yucca cactus (careful if you crouch to pee behind that).  The only traffic was Border Patrol who showed up with maddening regularity if I had to stop and pee behind said yucca. 

"I'm fine thank you.  I just can't pee until you leave."  True story. 

 

Last Continental Divide crossing.  About the same elevation as where we started. 

 At my last pee stop, I hear a car.  Sigh.  I ask STB, “Is that a car?”  “Yes, but at least it is not Jeff.  Oh, wait!  It is!”  Just then I see my own Subaru fly past, skid and back up while I’m pulling up my shorts.  Jeff is running out with his camera asking me to re-stage the shot.  Not. 

The last 20 miles were the longest of my life.  I was in pain and bonking.  I ate Hammer gel carried all this way for an emergency.  This seemed like one.  Then out of nowhere, we see the boarding crossing at Antelope Wells and a huge surge of energy had us hauling ass for the border.  Looking up I can see the S. Africans along with Jeff running for the road to be there when we reach it. 

Just look down.  Turn pedals.  Turn pedals.  Turn pedals. 

1 Mile!!

Hugs, tears, pictures.  The Mexican border guards were playing basketball.  They did not even look our way as we went under the crossing arms to take our picture in front of the iconic brass plaque marking the line dividing the US and Mexico and the southern terminus of the Tour Divide.  

There is more story - the crazy customs guy who fed us rainbow pops and let us shower at his house filled with dogs, writing our names on the wall of his “living room”, swapping stories with the S. Africans (who had left Silver City in the wee hours while we slept), the trip home with me curled in a ball nursing the same Sprite all the way back to Texas, the beautiful banner my niece and her friend had painted and stretched across the front of the house, 2 fevered days in bed before my first real meal. 

But standing with Sheila Torres-Blank, the “other” Sheila, in front of the sign at Antelope Wells, arm in arm, with our bikes.  That is the end really.  

Postscript

Customs Guy

Day 28 - Follow up on STB

07/07 Day 28 New Mexico  Geronimo Trail Ranch, CDT alternate, Pinos Altos, Silver City (70 miles, 14.5 hrs)

We were in the Gila Wilderness.  There were less than 200 miles in front of us to complete the world's longest off road bike race.  We'd overcome some pretty tough obstacles, always finding a way to keep moving forward but this was different.  It was scary.  SheilaT did not want me know know she was scared and I did not want her to know that I was.   

SheilaT admitted she did not say anything while Luke and Marion were there because she thought that Luke might make her hit the SPOT - hit that small red button on our tracking devices that no one wants to use that tells the world you need help.    She did not want to quit.  Bavado?  Foolhardy?  Tough as nails?  Lucky?

Though almost all of the numbness was gone, as soon as SheilaT returned home, she made an appointment with her doctor.   The riot act was read to her again and tests were scheduled.  
SheilaT had had a stroke.  
There was evidence that there had been 2 previously, so mild she did not notice. 
Test showed that she had a hole between 2 chambers of her heart and that occasionally blood clots were released.  
Outpatient surgery was done to install a device that sealed the hole (rather fascinating really).  

STB's molly bolt

It is 2013 and 2 years since we completed the TDR.  SheilaT is good as new and this year was the 2nd woman ever to complete the Arizona Trail Race (AZT) 750.  

I have SheilaT's permission to tell this story.  Why am I?  Because it was a fairly intense event that the story of our race would be incomplete without.  And I'm telling it because I have another friend (an athlete) who had a stroke from the same cause.  Perhaps there is someone in the small community of readers who will use this to help themselves or someone else.  I had just completed a Wilderness First Aid course a few months prior and I did not think that a young, healthy, fit person could so randomly have a stroke.

Sec 6, Pie Town, NM to Antelope Wells, NM - D28

07/07 Day 28 New Mexico  Geronimo Trail Ranch, CDT alternate, Pinos Altos, Silver City (70 miles, 14.5 hrs)

We dared talk about the finish today but the Tour Divide was not letting us go so easily.

The end was so close.  A mere 200 miles.  My stomach hurt.  My legs tired, hell I’m tired.  It is going to be hot even for me who trained in the already 90 degree heat at home.  Home.  I was ready to be there. 

The 4 of us packed up and once more rolled off in the dark. 

Right away, the forest road climbed and descended; 3 mile climb, descend; 2 mile climb, descend.  The cues seemed to be on an endless loop of “begin steep downhill, start up, top out…” 

As was our pattern, STB and I had moved ahead of the S. Africans so it was just the 2 of us some time after daylight when we stopped for a break.  It was a hill top with a beautiful morning view.  We had been there long enough that I thought we should be leaving when the S. Africans rolled up.  We chatted for a bit and as they left, STB made no motion to leave as well.  She murmured something about wanting to take a few more minutes.  I thought maybe she just wanted to soak in the last morning in the wilderness so I didn’t press.  After the S. Africans left us, she told me she could not feel her left side.

Sun coming up over a ridge in the Gila's

The S. Africans; Luke is an ER doctor, Marion is a Physical Therapist.  And Sheila did not say anything about her condition and just let them leave.  Really.  Of course I admonished her but it was too late now.  They were gone and here we were.

I am a problem solver.  My first reaction was how could the situation be fixed.  STB was calm and did not give any indication that this was a life or death situation.  What was I allowed to do?  If I physically helped she would be disqualified.  So just looking I could see even pupils, no drooping of the face or mouth, and normal coloration of her skin.  As I mentioned, she was calm and had total cognitive ability.  To me it had to be some sort of pinched nerve.  I got her to lie down and relax for a bit then gently go through some stretches.  Nothing worked.  Time was ticking by as the sun rose bringing the day’s heat with it.  Our options were to go back to the ranch or forward.  This is Sheila Torres-Blank and we’re going forward.  She had to walk with her bike not having the balance to get on and ride.  Behind her, I could see her dragging her left foot as she walked.  I saw no point in mentioning it.  I think we walked for a couple of miles when a car came by.  “Sheila, am I flagging down that car?”  “No” she says. 

She took some ibuprofen at some point and after a while was able to get on her bike and ride.  Ibuprofen or a matter of time?  Don’t know.  Careful and slow, but we were now able to make measurable progress.  Not really a technical rider, I worried about her on some of the crazy long, rocky descents we had that day.  But she got stronger as the day went on; not 100% but capable. 

One of the long sweeping descents.  I followed with a watchful eye. 

Climbing out.  Pushing on. 

We took refuge under a tree at mid-day to rest and eat.  I had my first can of Beenie-weenies with Ritz chasers.  Even hungry on the TD I would not call these good. 

At about 30 miles (crap it had taken us a long time to cover 30 miles) we topped another CD crossing and rode along it for the next few miles. 

I had stopped for something and while STB waited for me, she aimlessly read ahead in the cues and let out a loud “SHIT!” 

We had failed to note as we hastily glanced at the maps last night, that we were required to take a new alternate for 2011.  It was single track and hike a bike on the Continental Divide Trail (CDT).  We would shortly be turning off the main route and so not going past a ranger station or to Mimbres, our next presumed water sources.  The new CDT alternate is not noted on the map.  It is in our cues if we’d taken the time to scan ahead last night. 

Already exhausted, we followed the cue “L on gravel Sapillo Campground Rd”.  Along the way we spotted some firemen doing some training and they were kind enough to give us 2 water bottles each.  When we reached the campground we were briefly excited to see water pumps at the bathrooms but that was dashed since they were not working.  We’d have to make do with what we had. 

The CDT alternate was 12 miles long and hard.  Really, really soul searching, hard.  We followed blazes similar to those on the Appalachian Trail.  Soon coming to a place so steep, I put the bike down and climbed up to be sure we were following the correct route.  I could not believe it was.  Cussing like a sailor, I heaved the bike up.  Anger is a great source of energy.  I kept pushing up at a brisk pace, telling myself I’d stop and wait for STB once it flattened out.  I got to a flat spot and waited…and waited.  Then I got worried and called out.  Nothing.  I left the bike and jogged back to the last place I’d seen her; a steep pitch with rock valleys off each side.  Had the numbness come back and she’d gone careening off the trail?  Almost in a panic, I turned around and saw another blaze on a tree.  The trail had split and I kept going up and STB not seeing me, went left, the correct route.  I ran back to my bike, rode down what would have been a blast under different circumstances, and headed down the left trail.  About a mile down the trail, STB and I met up as she was coming back to look for me.  Wow.  Too close to the end to be loosing it. 

Slick rock at the top of the big push up the start of the the CDT alternate

The CDT trail will follow around the sides of the next canyon

So for miles we pushed and sometimes rode a skinny, off-camber trail with a down-hill side too steep to contemplate a miss-step.  The trail went into a wildfire area where finding the blazes was more difficult.  There were huge fallen logs to cross and cactus.  STB got another flat on the trail but made quick work of replacing the regular tube with a slime tube. 

A bright spot of the day for me was when the trail joined a fantastic section of fast, steep rolling double track following a down hill drainage.  My Willits just loved this stuff!  One drop was particularly steep so I stopped at the bottom and called back to STB to take care.  I did not hear anything and after waiting a bit, left the bike and hiked back up.  She’d had another flat.  The valve on the new slime tube had failed so time was taken to repair the puncture in the old tube and use that instead.  An aside, we heard later that it was the steep drop on this section where Juston Simoni wrecked, ending his epic Tour Divide bid. 

  

Once we finally got off the trail and heading back to the main route, the job was finding water.  We met 2 forest workers just returning to their truck who kindly gave us a couple of bottles.  Perhaps we did not need those but who knows what could happen in the relatively short miles to Silver City.  I was gun-shy.

Thankfully nothing.  We rode the smooth fast Hwy 15 through Pinos Altos and contemplated stopping at the town ice cream shop but really Silver City is where we wanted to be.  As we got close to town, there were amazing rock spire formations along the deep canyon walls to our right.  It is hard to appreciate beauty when you are exhausted. 

Another 15 miles and we were in Silver City.  We had expected to be here by 2:00 and it was almost dark and 8:00.  It took a while to find an available hotel; a dank Motel 6 on top of a hill.  The last thing we wanted was to ride down that hill to eat and have to come back up.  The small restaurant behind the hotel was just closing but agreed to stay open and feed us.  So grateful. 

Off to bed.  Tomorrow is, we hope, the last day of our Tour Divide. 

Sec 6, Pie Town, NM to Antelope Wells, NM - D27

07/06 Day 27 New Mexico  Pie Town – Geronimo Trail Ranch (108)

We start our last map today.

Note:  I did not know it at the time, but I was getting sick.  A sinus infection gone wild, the main symptom of which was a terrible stomach ache.  Of course I just assumed it was the toll of the TD diet and stress on my body.  The mild ache from last night was a bit worse today but seemed better if I ate. 

The S. Africans had arrived during the night.  If I remember correctly, Nick Kennedy and Kevin had arrived also but very late, or early as it were.  I had a chicken pot pie from the house freezer and some oatmeal for just the most brilliant breakfast.  Since there had been no re-supply, I wanted to conserve what I was carrying.  Silver City was still almost 2 days away.  We left money behind, signed the house guest book and with the S. Africans rode into the dark. 

School house ruins somewhere past Pie Town

The plan for the day was to get to the Beaverhead Ranger Station where there would be water and a soda (we heard they had a machine) and hopefully sleep at the Geronimo Trail Ranch.  We would bivy if we had to. 

The route today was entirely on dirt and remote.  Almost immediately out of Pie Town we had 2 CD crossings and soon after entered the Gila National Forest.  The Gila is quite different from the lush forests of Canada and Colorado or even those of east Texas.  It is really dry.  The trees are large but spaced far apart.  I don’t know how much of that is a natural occurrence, or if the arid climate is the reason. 

The Gila's

Selfi trying to show desert vastness - with a fingerprint

Darn fingerprint

Another CD crossing and things flattened out for a time.  There were a lot of cows today.  One group bunched up against a fence trying desperately to get away from us.  Of course, we had some sections of really, really crappy cow and 4 wheeler chewed up double track which is always a joy. 

As we expected, the day got pretty hot.  I had taken to stowing my jersey early in the day and just wearing a white Patagonia short sleeve t-shirt.  This worked well for me in hot Texas paddling events and was a good idea for the TD too.  A cow-patty surrounded stock tank provided a much needed head soaking during the heat of the day and we wetted bandanas to help keep us cool as we rode on. 

We entered and exited the Gila a couple of times; repeating over and over the pattern of climbing and descending, crossing the CD 3 more times.  And while we were riding past a private ranch, a huge heard of elk, spooked at our arrival, ran along beside us, and then in a wave of movement, crossed the road in front of us bounding up the hill to our left.  We stopped and both grabbed cameras.  Such a beautiful site! 

As we neared the Beaverhead Work Center, we were passed by trucks carrying workers home.  Darn.  That meant no-one was going to be there and we really wanted information on the ranch where we'd hope to sleep and maybe even get a meal.  Seemingly forever later (the miles are longer when you are tired), having ridden 100 miles, we got to the work center.  There were cabins around where some workers seemed to live but the actual center was closed.  But, there was the promised soda machine.  This time, only half the selections were empty.  I don’t remember what I ended up with out of that machine, only that it didn't matter.  And there were concrete toilets.  Always a plus.  Onward.

It was 8 miles still on forest road to Wall Lake, presumably named for the tall, moss covered cliff wall running along it’s eastern side.  The lake is dammed where FR 150 crossed over an exit point for the East Fork Gila River.  Not nearly as grand as it sounds.  The lake was very low and the river not more than a trickle.  The Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch was just another mile farther.    

East Fort Gila River

Wall Lake

Of course it was a climb up from the road to the main house but at least it was the last one of the day.  We were met by the owners Diana and Harry Easterly and right away taken to a lovely, huge cabin just off the main building.  Dinner would be community style with other ranch guests at 7:00.  Late for us but no complaining.  We were trashed and grateful for the accommodations. There was a table just inside the door of the cabin with a coffee maker, tea and such…and a cookie jar.  I lifted the lid and almost cried.  Fresh, homemade chocolate chip cookies.  It was with restraint that we did not eat them all. 

We made use of the time before dinner with the usual bike cleaning, shower and as we were busying ourselves the S. Africans arrived.  We often started a day together with me and STB riding faster for a separation later.  They shared the enormous cabin with us, and sadly, the cookies as well.

What a fantastic meal!  Partly because it had been 2 days since we’d had a full meal and also because everything was made from scratch and made well.  Roasted chicken, real mashed potatoes, salad from their garden and fresh squeezed lemonade.  Wow.  Thank goodness there was enough for seconds.  Diana and Harry chatted with us and the French family also staying at the ranch.  Randomly, Harry too mentioned the county law about heads of households being required to have a fire arm.  Just bizarre. 

The cook agreed to make us some hard boiled eggs for the morning and with happy full stomachs we all slept well.

Section 5, Platoro CO to Pie Town, NM - D26

         07/05 Day 26 New Mexico  Grants – Pie Town (70 miles)

From now on, the days were going to be hot, even for Texans, and it was important to get out early.  The 4 of us rolled out in the dark. 

We took the El Malpais alternate, leaving Grants on Hwy 117.  While still dark a pack of dogs came out of some nearby yard chasing us.  What a heart pounder!  I was nervous for the hours after that until the sun came up.  I like to be able to see what is about to bite me. 

I was having one of those slow sluggish days.  I’d had enough food.  Enough rest by TD standards.  It was just one of those days where a rally was hard and my disposition bleak. 

Still trying to capture a sunrise

The bright spot was entering the El Malpais National Monument and Conservation Area.  Just stunning!  To our left, ice caves, tall cliffs and natural arches.  To the right, a huge expanse of exposed lava flow.  (Yes, we took a lot of pictures)

 

Head selfi  capturing Luke and Marion

At about 40 miles, we left El Malpais and turned on to some of the crappiest (dry) dirt road of the TD.  Could have been my by-now-reduced state, but I found it hard to believe following the dusty misery of FR 250 after Platoro that there could be a more wash-boarded, dustier road.  The route from El Malpais to Pie Town would fit that bill.  My notes say “road crap – just crap”.  As we rode, we came across a hiker.  It boggled me to think of walking the Divide; elongating the hardships we experienced.  At least we could make relatively quick work of it. 

I cried when we got to the Pie Café.  I was exhausted and so grateful to have arrived at the place we had talked about for so long.  The end was near.

Name says it all

There are 2 pie restaurants in Pie Town.  The Pie-o-Neer and the Pie Café.  Only the Pie Café was open that day.  In all our months of planning and training, this was the day STB and I talked the most about.  Not getting to Antelope Wells but to Pie Town.  I have to tell you, I was a bit disappointed.  We were hoping to re-supply here.  With no guarantee of a meal at a dude ranch 100+ miles and a day away and certainly no other store or restaurant until Mimbres, 150 miles and a day and ½ away, the closed-on-Wednesdays Pie-o-Neer and grocery meant the Pie Café was it.  The menu for that day (besides pie)?  You could order a hamburger or a hot dog.  Yep.  That’s it.  STB got the turkey burger variation and I went straight up burger, and a hot dog, and fries.  Pie choice?  New Mexico apple with toasted pine nuts and hatch chili.  Not bad at all. 

Pie Café was only open until 4pm.  The plan was to find the hikers/cyclist’s hostel, Toaster House, shower, nap and come back for a 2^nd meal at Pie Café before they closed at 4pm. 

Toaster House is the eclectic, once full time home of Nita Larronde, turned pay what you can refuge for hikers and bikers of the Colorado Divide Trail (CDT).  It is so named for all of the toasters hanging along the entry fence and gateway to the house.  There was no one there when we arrived but there were plenty of notes tacked here and there telling us how things worked.  We could eat what ever we found and sleep in any space not already claimed. 

The shower it was noted, was not working because of a recent freeze but we had noticed an RV park just 2 doors down that also had showers.  We spoke to the RV park owner who let us know that his showers were also just pay what you can for trail users.  What a cool place.  We took nice hot showers and returned to Toaster House. 

We claimed as home what looked to have been a child’s purple painted bedroom with a net still full of stuffed animals tacked up in one corner.  Full and showered, we rolled out our sleep kits and slept for 2 hours; hard. 

This place would fit right well in Austin

Toaster House

Just before 4:00 we went back to the café.  I ordered another hot dog and a piece of cherry pie to go.  My stomach hurt (now there is a surprise) so I did not eat the meal.  We chatted with the owner while they cleaned up shop.  I said that I’d never seen a café owner bus tables wearing a side arm.  We received quite the lecture on the ways of the Wild West and his days as a retired police man……..  He also told us there was a law on the books in that county requiring all heads of household to own a fire arm.  Wow.  I am totally surprised the Texas Legislature has not jumped on that one.