We left at
first light, 5:30 am , still following the Fortine/Stryker detour. STB was having on-going then
progressively worse tire problems requiring very long stops to triage. The boys eventually caught up about 9:30 .
Meanwhile,
we traveled a maze of forest roads in on again, off again rain. Eventually snow patches began to show up on
the sides of the road. Then snow on the
road. Then just snow. A lot of it, and it was not rideable. As our friend Marcy Beard had predicted,
since we were in the back of the pack, previous racers had packed a foot print
path in the snow and alongside the foot path, a track for the bike to roll
in. It made it a bit easier for us but was
still hard, slow going for many hours.
As the day wore on, temperatures rose and it began to rain. This softened the snow and we began to worry
about possibly having to bivy out in it if we did not come to the end by
dark. We did not eat much as we kept
thinking we would certainly pop out soon and could stop and eat on solid
ground. Eventually, STB opted for a Larabar with Starbucks
Via on top. Her hands were too cold and
tired to open the package and get the stuff on the bar. Result = coffee on the snowy ground and us in
exhausted laughter/tears. Maybe you had
to be there but for us a defining TD moment.
After 10 miles,
the last 2 in slow rain, snow gave way to dirt road then eventually
pavement. Note: There was an Avalanche Area warning at the
END of this section. Might have been
nice to know at the beginning.
Somewhere
along the way, we re-joined the main GDMBR route in the Whitefish Mountains and the Flathead National Forest .
This route section skirted the western edge of Glacier National Park .
Someplace I’ve always wanted to go – not today.
The now
paved FR 115 gave us a long downhill that might have been nice had we not been
so wet and cold. The road followed along
the long Whitefish Lake with climbs and descents; all in
pouring rain. It just seemed like too
much. I began to see the pattern of each
day seeming like too much only for the next to be even more. This is the Tour Divide.
Pushing. Post holing. Miles. |
Resting |
So now they tell us |
We finally descended into Whitefish. First stop was a grocery where we thought we could get a fast answer for hotel, dinner and possibly the bike shop. The person we asked turned out to be one of those nice enough people that asked too many questions and provided no information. As we gleaned more than once, it is more efficient to pull out the cue sheet services listing and make the calls ourselves.
Our calls
landed us at Glacier Cyclery where we were very well taken care of by owner Ron
Brunk. The service we received – not
repeated at every shop, but several – was over the top. His amazing staff stayed late to get our
bikes back to working order - the mud and rain having started to take a
toll.
Willits was super happy to see a bike shop |
Ron directed us to a fabulous restaurant, the Buffalo Café for much needed food. During dinner, he stopped in to tell us our bikes were ready and that they guys would be in early so we could get on the road. Wow. Just amazing the support!
We stopped
at a natural grocery where I found the coveted peanut butter pretzels and
Justin’s organic peanut butter packets. Ah
the things that bring joy.
The hotel
was unremarkable but adequate and had a computer – though when the office
closed, access to the computer was over.
A common challenge.
After only
traveling 43 miles in over 14 hours, sleep came fast and hard.
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