Tuesday, July 5, 2011

Section 5, Platoro CO to Pie Town, NM - D26

         07/05 Day 26 New Mexico  Grants – Pie Town (70 miles)

From now on, the days were going to be hot, even for Texans, and it was important to get out early.  The 4 of us rolled out in the dark. 

We took the El Malpais alternate, leaving Grants on Hwy 117.  While still dark a pack of dogs came out of some nearby yard chasing us.  What a heart pounder!  I was nervous for the hours after that until the sun came up.  I like to be able to see what is about to bite me. 

I was having one of those slow sluggish days.  I’d had enough food.  Enough rest by TD standards.  It was just one of those days where a rally was hard and my disposition bleak. 


Still trying to capture a sunrise


The bright spot was entering the El Malpais National Monument and Conservation Area.  Just stunning!  To our left, ice caves, tall cliffs and natural arches.  To the right, a huge expanse of exposed lava flow.  (Yes, we took a lot of pictures)


 





Head selfi  capturing Luke and Marion




At about 40 miles, we left El Malpais and turned on to some of the crappiest (dry) dirt road of the TD.  Could have been my by-now-reduced state, but I found it hard to believe following the dusty misery of FR 250 after Platoro that there could be a more wash-boarded, dustier road.  The route from El Malpais to Pie Town would fit that bill.  My notes say “road crap – just crap”.  As we rode, we came across a hiker.  It boggled me to think of walking the Divide; elongating the hardships we experienced.  At least we could make relatively quick work of it. 

I cried when we got to the Pie Café.  I was exhausted and so grateful to have arrived at the place we had talked about for so long.  The end was near.

Name says it all



There are 2 pie restaurants in Pie Town.  The Pie-o-Neer and the Pie Café.  Only the Pie Café was open that day.  In all our months of planning and training, this was the day STB and I talked the most about.  Not getting to Antelope Wells but to Pie Town.  I have to tell you, I was a bit disappointed.  We were hoping to re-supply here.  With no guarantee of a meal at a dude ranch 100+ miles and a day away and certainly no other store or restaurant until Mimbres, 150 miles and a day and ½ away, the closed-on-Wednesdays Pie-o-Neer and grocery meant the Pie Café was it.  The menu for that day (besides pie)?  You could order a hamburger or a hot dog.  Yep.  That’s it.  STB got the turkey burger variation and I went straight up burger, and a hot dog, and fries.  Pie choice?  New Mexico apple with toasted pine nuts and hatch chili.  Not bad at all. 

Pie Café was only open until 4pm.  The plan was to find the hikers/cyclist’s hostel, Toaster House, shower, nap and come back for a 2nd meal at Pie Café before they closed at 4pm

Toaster House is the eclectic, once full time home of Nita Larronde, turned pay what you can refuge for hikers and bikers of the Colorado Divide Trail (CDT).  It is so named for all of the toasters hanging along the entry fence and gateway to the house.  There was no one there when we arrived but there were plenty of notes tacked here and there telling us how things worked.  We could eat what ever we found and sleep in any space not already claimed. 
The shower it was noted, was not working because of a recent freeze but we had noticed an RV park just 2 doors down that also had showers.  We spoke to the RV park owner who let us know that his showers were also just pay what you can for trail users.  What a cool place.  We took nice hot showers and returned to Toaster House. 
We claimed as home what looked to have been a child’s purple painted bedroom with a net still full of stuffed animals tacked up in one corner.  Full and showered, we rolled out our sleep kits and slept for 2 hours; hard. 


This place would fit right well in Austin

Toaster House
Just before 4:00 we went back to the café.  I ordered another hot dog and a piece of cherry pie to go.  My stomach hurt (now there is a surprise) so I did not eat the meal.  We chatted with the owner while they cleaned up shop.  I said that I’d never seen a café owner bus tables wearing a side arm.  We received quite the lecture on the ways of the Wild West and his days as a retired police man……..  He also told us there was a law on the books in that county requiring all heads of household to own a fire arm.  Wow.  I am totally surprised the Texas Legislature has not jumped on that one.  

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