Sec 6, Pie Town, NM to Antelope Wells, NM - D27

07/06 Day 27 New Mexico  Pie Town – Geronimo Trail Ranch (108)

We start our last map today.

Note:  I did not know it at the time, but I was getting sick.  A sinus infection gone wild, the main symptom of which was a terrible stomach ache.  Of course I just assumed it was the toll of the TD diet and stress on my body.  The mild ache from last night was a bit worse today but seemed better if I ate. 

The S. Africans had arrived during the night.  If I remember correctly, Nick Kennedy and Kevin had arrived also but very late, or early as it were.  I had a chicken pot pie from the house freezer and some oatmeal for just the most brilliant breakfast.  Since there had been no re-supply, I wanted to conserve what I was carrying.  Silver City was still almost 2 days away.  We left money behind, signed the house guest book and with the S. Africans rode into the dark. 

School house ruins somewhere past Pie Town

The plan for the day was to get to the Beaverhead Ranger Station where there would be water and a soda (we heard they had a machine) and hopefully sleep at the Geronimo Trail Ranch.  We would bivy if we had to. 

The route today was entirely on dirt and remote.  Almost immediately out of Pie Town we had 2 CD crossings and soon after entered the Gila National Forest.  The Gila is quite different from the lush forests of Canada and Colorado or even those of east Texas.  It is really dry.  The trees are large but spaced far apart.  I don’t know how much of that is a natural occurrence, or if the arid climate is the reason. 

The Gila's

Selfi trying to show desert vastness - with a fingerprint

Darn fingerprint

Another CD crossing and things flattened out for a time.  There were a lot of cows today.  One group bunched up against a fence trying desperately to get away from us.  Of course, we had some sections of really, really crappy cow and 4 wheeler chewed up double track which is always a joy. 

As we expected, the day got pretty hot.  I had taken to stowing my jersey early in the day and just wearing a white Patagonia short sleeve t-shirt.  This worked well for me in hot Texas paddling events and was a good idea for the TD too.  A cow-patty surrounded stock tank provided a much needed head soaking during the heat of the day and we wetted bandanas to help keep us cool as we rode on. 

We entered and exited the Gila a couple of times; repeating over and over the pattern of climbing and descending, crossing the CD 3 more times.  And while we were riding past a private ranch, a huge heard of elk, spooked at our arrival, ran along beside us, and then in a wave of movement, crossed the road in front of us bounding up the hill to our left.  We stopped and both grabbed cameras.  Such a beautiful site! 

As we neared the Beaverhead Work Center, we were passed by trucks carrying workers home.  Darn.  That meant no-one was going to be there and we really wanted information on the ranch where we'd hope to sleep and maybe even get a meal.  Seemingly forever later (the miles are longer when you are tired), having ridden 100 miles, we got to the work center.  There were cabins around where some workers seemed to live but the actual center was closed.  But, there was the promised soda machine.  This time, only half the selections were empty.  I don’t remember what I ended up with out of that machine, only that it didn't matter.  And there were concrete toilets.  Always a plus.  Onward.

It was 8 miles still on forest road to Wall Lake, presumably named for the tall, moss covered cliff wall running along it’s eastern side.  The lake is dammed where FR 150 crossed over an exit point for the East Fork Gila River.  Not nearly as grand as it sounds.  The lake was very low and the river not more than a trickle.  The Geronimo Trail Guest Ranch was just another mile farther.    

East Fort Gila River

Wall Lake

Of course it was a climb up from the road to the main house but at least it was the last one of the day.  We were met by the owners Diana and Harry Easterly and right away taken to a lovely, huge cabin just off the main building.  Dinner would be community style with other ranch guests at 7:00.  Late for us but no complaining.  We were trashed and grateful for the accommodations. There was a table just inside the door of the cabin with a coffee maker, tea and such…and a cookie jar.  I lifted the lid and almost cried.  Fresh, homemade chocolate chip cookies.  It was with restraint that we did not eat them all. 

We made use of the time before dinner with the usual bike cleaning, shower and as we were busying ourselves the S. Africans arrived.  We often started a day together with me and STB riding faster for a separation later.  They shared the enormous cabin with us, and sadly, the cookies as well.

What a fantastic meal!  Partly because it had been 2 days since we’d had a full meal and also because everything was made from scratch and made well.  Roasted chicken, real mashed potatoes, salad from their garden and fresh squeezed lemonade.  Wow.  Thank goodness there was enough for seconds.  Diana and Harry chatted with us and the French family also staying at the ranch.  Randomly, Harry too mentioned the county law about heads of households being required to have a fire arm.  Just bizarre. 

The cook agreed to make us some hard boiled eggs for the morning and with happy full stomachs we all slept well.